Possion to smell the scent of new books printed

Wallpaper*

New perfume Paper Passion.

Inspired by German publisher Gerhard Steidl's comments that his favorite scent was "a freshly printed book," Wallpaper magazine has launched Paper Passion, a perfume capturing the unique odor.

The idea for the perfume was conceived at last year's Wallpaper Handmade exhibition in Milan, when the international design and style bible took inspiration from Steidl's comments in the film How to Make a Book with Steidl.
The magazine subsequently asked Steidl to work with avant-garde perfumer Geza Schoen to try and bottle that scent -- while Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld came on board to design the packaging and come up with the name Paper Passion.
The final result, which is featured in the annual Handmade issue of Wallpaper (out July 12), is going on sale online and in select concept stores, bookshops and perfumeries across the world retailing at $98.
Schoen created the perfume with just four or five ingredients, including ethyl linoleate and a selection of woody components to add dryness, although capturing the unique scent was a tricky experience.
"The smell of printed paper is dry and fatty; they are not notes you often work with," he said.
In terms of packaging, Lagerfeld instantly visualized a real book with pages and a hidden cut-out compartment to house the perfume bottle in the middle. In the front of the book are short essays on the subject of paper by Lagerfeld, Schoen, German author and artist Günter Grass, and Wallpaper editor-in-chief Tony Chambers.
"Beautiful paper is for me the top of luxury," writes Lagerfeld.
"I am a paper freak. It's a physical passion. I cannot live without paper. Touching perfect paper has something sensuous about it."
Paper Passion's launch comes as perfumers are increasingly looking for innovative ways to stand out in the oversaturated perfume market; some of last year's quirkier perfume launches included BLOOD Concept, an independent Italian perfume house with scents based on blood types.
And earlier this year new brand The Fragrance Kitchen announced the launch of a perfume with its own multi-sensory e-commerce site -- the house unveils a scent on its website each month comprising an original score and video conveying its aromatic character.

Whale-free perfume

Tree gene trick is good news for people who like perfume made without sperm whale waste

Sperm whales are among the largest mammals on Earth. Credit: Wayne Hoggard NOAA/NMFS/SEFSC

Expensive perfumes come in tiny bottles, but many hide a whale-sized secret.
To perfect a particular smell, perfume makers often use an ingredient that comes from sperm whales with upset tummies. The whale waste, called ambergris, is solid and greasy on its own. But in perfume, ambergris holds all the smelly ingredients together for a long time. People describe its smell as “earthy” and “sweet.”
When a sperm whale eats something sharp, like a cuttlefish beak or fish bones, ambergris coats the object and protects the whale’s innards. But the use of ambergris in perfumes upsets some people who don’t want animal products in their perfumes, even if the ingredient is something the animal wanted to get rid of anyway.
Joerg Bohlmann is neither a perfumer (an expert who crafts perfumes) nor an expert on whales. He’s a plant biologist at the University of British Columbia in Vancouver, Canada. But his studies on plant chemicals point to a new way to make high-end perfume without ambergris. Perfumers in the United States and Europe have already started calling Bohlmann. In the April 6, 2012, edition of The Journal of Biological Chemistry, he and his colleagues showed how one gene — from a tree — might push whales out of the perfume business.

Ambergris: It’s waxy, flammable, comes from the belly of a whale — and it might be in your favorite perfume. Credit: Peter Kaminski

The gene comes from a balsam fir, an evergreen tree that grows in the northeast United States and Canada. (Also, balsam firs make perfect Christmas trees.) The trees produce a chemical that can be used in perfume in place of ambergris — with a catch.
You can’t just walk up to a balsam fir, drill a hole and fill up a cup with the chemical. In nature, it’s mixed with a bunch of other chemicals, so it’s not easy to isolate as a pure compound. Imagine, for instance, trying to isolate sugar from a sweetened breakfast cereal.
“Separation can be a challenge,” Bohlmann says.
This is where science comes in handy. Even before this project, Bohlmann and his colleagues had been studying the genes of conifers, a family of trees that includes evergreens like the balsam fir. When the researchers learned that balsam firs produce the ambergris-like chemical, they decided to use their gene know-how to find it.
A gene is a small segment of DNA, a long and coiled molecule that carries information. Genes are inside almost every cell of every living thing and each gene has a specific purpose. In a balsam fir tree, one particular gene contains the instructions for how to make the ambergris substitute.
Bohlmann and his team found that gene and promptly took it out of the tree cells. Then the researchers did something that might sound strange to someone who doesn’t work in genetics: They put the gene from the tree into yeast cells.
Yeast may sound familiar because it’s used to make things like bread, wine and beer. Biologists like to work with yeast because it easily adopts new genes and changes its behavior. When Bohlmann put the fir tree gene into the yeast, the yeast started making the same chemical that had been produced by the tree.
Perfumers pay big bucks for ambergris because it is a fixative, which means it holds a smell in place on a person’s body.
“Cheap perfumes smell good in the first hour or so and then everything is gone,” explains Bohlmann. More expensive perfumes are much more stable, with their scent lingering on the body for hours or a day after you apply it.
The new chemical, made by yeast with tree genes, can be used as a fixative, too. And using yeast to make the fixative is cheaper than combing beaches for whale waste or looking for it floating in the sea.
Bohlmann, whose research focuses on the chemicals produced by plants, admits he never thought he’d get into the perfume business. But now, he says, fragrance manufacturers have been calling to find out how to use his technology in new scents.
“It’s definitely an interesting by-product of our research,” he says.
Power words
DNA, or deoxyribonucleic acid. A long molecule in nearly all living organisms that carries genetic information. Each molecule of DNA consists of two strands coiled around each other to form a double helix, a structure like a twisted ladder.
gene The basic unit of hereditary information.
cell The smallest structural and functional unit of an organism, typically microscopic.
ambergris A waxlike substance that originates as a secretion in the intestines of the sperm whale, found on beaches or floating in tropical seas and used in perfume manufacture.
sperm whale A toothed whale with a massive head, typically feeding at great depths on squid, formerly valued for the spermaceti and sperm oil in its head and the ambergris in its intestines.

History of Perfume

History of Perfume

Perfume or incense has been known since the stone age, prehistoric man has identified a number of aromatic wood, or oil to add taste their food. Even the Ancient Egyptians worshiped the god of perfume, menyan and balm. Starting from wearing perfume only for sacred things, in the end fragrances or perfumes that we know now the human accessories.Other hand, the Greeks returned from a voyage to bring a new fragrances. Following the Egyptians, Greeks produce perfumes for religious ceremonies and daily life. Sometimes the whole body with oil cake and cream in the shower, before and after eating, has become a fashion. The aim is to health and pleasure. Perfume used for burial, rituals, and everyday life. Because merchants often relating y perfume your doctor or pharmacist, who believes Roman scent also serves as a drug.Their big breakthrough was the use of porcelain bottles. They thus developed a technique of blowing glass bottles, which were found in Syiria century - 1 BC. Wearing perfume then decreases in the Western world due to the development of Christian faith. They do not recognize the burial ceremony. Instead, the Arabs still maintain existence perfume through the spice trade and the discovery and development of the tool and distillation techniques.The Arabs and Persians became a tradition, wearing perfume. The gardens at the Alhambra Palace in southern Granada, Spain, the evidence of the role of perfume in the daily life of local communities. The fall of the Roman and barbarian invasion brought people to the dark ages of the West. The use of perfume was weakened. Conditions that would last until the century - 12, when Christians began to recognize the attraction at once elegant perfumes as a symbol of health - worn to ward off pestilence and odor-offensive odor.The king and nobles also felt in terms of cleanliness and charm perfume. In medieval times, is ordinary washing and bath fragrances. Because the spices from the East into Europe via Venice, the city quickly became the center of the perfume. In the mid - 15, show a mixture of perfume oils and alkhohol - called Eaux de senteur or Scent. The discovery of the Americas in the century to Venice gelarnya loss as a perfume.Perfume trade in the 16th century together with the rapidly selling berparfum gloves. These gloves could give rise to confusing the wearer because of bad odor - due to a mixture of perfume and sweat of the wearer. Some people try to sprinkle perfume menangkalnya that stink. In the 17th century, perfume achieve great success. Government Council at the time of Louis XIV France make up her face with powder and perfume to spread his false hair.In this century, which again is a civet and musk trendy. As Civet is a musk fragrances from the gland. While the perfume of musk glands, stomach horned stag do (musk deer). In this age of enlightenment, the tendency on the sweet-scented perfume, flowers, and fruits increased. World perfume the 18th century marked by profusion of multiple new fragrances, along with the bottle, the bottle is charming. People should choose fragrances nobody really wants to obtain appropriate. Also the occurrence of the century revolution in the world with the discovery of eau de perfume cologne - "ari kolonyo," said we. Mixture of fresh rosemary (leaves of a Mediterranean area), neroli (orange flowers), bergamot (citrus / orange), and lemon is used for various needs. French Revolution seems to not be able to turn off the scent. Even managed to leave the name fragrances perfume a la Guillotine - "Perfume knife choppers head".
 After the revolution has passed, the perfume has reigned. Napoleon and his staff known as the heavy perfume of consumers. Around this time, Grasse France perfume industry grown as a city. And Paris into the city of Grasse perfume business Partner, thus the center of the perfume world. Between 1770 and 1900 marked the birth of several large industrial perfumes, such as Chiris (1768), LT Piver (1774), Lantier (1795), Roure-Bertrand-Dupont (1820), Sozio (1840), Robertet (1850), and Payan-Bertrand (1854). The development of chemistry in the 19th century perfume also increase manufacturing technology. Scientists freely kreativitasnya luck, to create an assorted mixture of synthetic perfume chemicals. A new profession already appeared in this century: mixing perfume (perfume blender).
 World perfume at the beginning of the 20th century could trouble noisy with the participation of tailor. It is because of this they offer follow-vogue at the boutique perfume-boutique. Paul Poiret, the success of women business girdle, in 1911 threw the perfume packaging, Les Parfums de Rosine, a complementary fashion plans. The 20th century marked also by the emergence of the world line of perfumes. The names of those you already know: Chanel, Lanvin, ROCHAS, Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, and Givenchy. They were joined by the makers of gems (jeweler) who follow perparfuman brisk business, Van Cleef & between Arpels, Cartier, and Bulgari. ak would remain, the planners adibusana multiple fly especially their fragrances. They are also the owner of the well known names: Kenzo, Issey Miyake, Claude Montana, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versce, Yves Saint Laurent, and others. What is competitive or not, they are jointly and strengthened the presence of perfume as an art and commodity esteemed in the world. Business its very very sexy and sweet, sure. Thus the history of perfume is so intricate.